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Why Bar Soap Can Be Bad for Your Hair

You can wash your hair with a bar of soap. Plenty of people have on a camping trip. The problem shows up when you keep doing it: hair starts to feel rough, tangles more, and looks dull or slightly waxy. There are two reasons.

1. Soap is alkaline

Real soap, the kind made from oils and lye, has a pH around 9 to 10. Your scalp and hair sit closer to 5. Washing with something that alkaline makes the outer layer of each hair (the cuticle) lift instead of lying flat. Lifted cuticles catch on each other, so hair tangles, feels coarse, and reflects less light.

2. Soap reacts with hard water

If your water has a lot of calcium and magnesium, soap reacts with them and leaves soap scum, the same film you see on a shower door. On hair that film sticks around as a dull, slightly sticky coating that more soap doesn't remove.

What about hand soap?

Most liquid hand soap isn't true soap. It is a detergent made to cut grease and germs off your hands, often with fragrance and sometimes antibacterial ingredients. It will clean your hair, but it strips more oil than shampoo and adds nothing to make hair soft, so expect dry, tangled hair afterward. Once in an emergency is fine. Follow it with conditioner if you have any.

So what about shampoo bars?

A proper shampoo bar isn't soap. Most are made with synthetic cleansers that work at a lower pH, like liquid shampoo, just pressed into a solid. Check the label. If the first ingredients are things like "sodium olivate" or "saponified oils," it's soap. If you see names like "sodium cocoyl isethionate," it's a real shampoo bar.

Some people do use true soap on their hair and follow it with a diluted vinegar rinse to bring the pH back down. It works for some hair types, but it's a lot of effort compared to just using shampoo.

What to do instead

Use shampoo on your scalp and conditioner on the lengths. Keep the soap for your body. If you've been using soap for a while and your hair feels coated, a clarifying shampoo usually clears it in one or two washes.

Quick answers

Will one wash with soap hurt? No. You'll just notice your hair feels a bit rougher until the next proper wash.

Is body wash bad for your hair? Not harmful, but the moisturizers in body wash can leave hair limp or coated. Fine for a day, not as a habit.

Is olive oil soap gentler on hair? It's gentle on skin, but it's still alkaline, so the same problem applies to hair.

If you're stocking a guest shower, put out shampoo and conditioner as well as soap. Guests notice when the only thing in the shower is a bar. Our Victor guest sets come with all three, and the keratin shampoo and conditioner set is a good everyday pair.

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